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Author Topic: What is the ideal size for a ice chisel head?  (Read 3006 times)

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Offline GOLDTIP

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I am going to be making one in CNC class in college and was wondering what would the perfect thickness, width and height be on just the chisel itself minus the handle?  What are your thoughts and why?
LIFE IS ALWAYS FULL OF CHANGES  SO ALWAYS EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED  SO HUNT WHILE YOU CAN !!!!

Offline finch

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dad built one out of 1/2" plate.  it's about 5 inches tall and 3 inches wide.  he used solid barstock for a handle, that f'n thing weighs about 16 pounds, but I can go through 3-4 inches of ice in 5 strikes or less.
"Give me your tired, your hungry, your poor... It's Americans that are tired, hungry, and poor.  so until you take care of that, close the book!" - Edward Norton, American History X

Offline Woody

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I made mine from 3/8" x 2" flat.  The handle is an old axle shaft. Works for me.
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Offline mnnate

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I just made one at work on some "free time". It is machined out of 1/2" hardened stainless steel used on a shear. It is roughly 4" wide. I used solid stainless barstock for the handle. You could shave with the chisel head its that sharp and the edge should last a LONG time! I'll post some pics tomoro. The only thing is if it gets dropped through there is no getting it back with a magnet!

Offline muskies4fun

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I just made one at work on some "free time". It is machined out of 1/2" hardened stainless steel used on a shear. It is roughly 4" wide. I used solid stainless barstock for the handle. You could shave with the chisel head its that sharp and the edge should last a LONG time! I'll post some pics tomoro. The only thing is if it gets dropped through there is no getting it back with a magnet!

 That's why you put a wrist strap on it

Offline Woody

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I forgot to add why I went with 2" x 3/8" flat bar for the chisel head.  Mostly it was because that's what I had on hand at the time, and considering the weight of the axle rod the handle is built out of I didn't feel it needed to be any heavier.  For the strap I have a piece of good rope tied in a loop.  It ain't pretty, but it works like a charm.  If I had to do it different I think I'd go with a lighter handle. (not much, just a lil bit)
The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not. ~Thomas Jefferson



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Offline mnnate

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I just made one at work on some "free time". It is machined out of 1/2" hardened stainless steel used on a shear. It is roughly 4" wide. I used solid stainless barstock for the handle. You could shave with the chisel head its that sharp and the edge should last a LONG time! I'll post some pics tomoro. The only thing is if it gets dropped through there is no getting it back with a magnet!

 That's why you put a wrist strap on it

I put a loop on the end with a rope that I clip to a loop on my bibs!

Offline GRIZ

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I just made one at work on some "free time". It is machined out of 1/2" hardened stainless steel used on a shear. It is roughly 4" wide. I used solid stainless barstock for the handle. You could shave with the chisel head its that sharp and the edge should last a LONG time! I'll post some pics tomoro. The only thing is if it gets dropped through there is no getting it back with a magnet!

I agree use some type of hardened steel, I used some old cutting edge from skidloader or maybe it was from and old field plow guess I can't remember it's been so long. As far as size I'd say 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide and 5 inches high. When putting an edge on it don't use any type of heat unless you know how to reharden the steel. The rule I followed was if I couldn't touch it it was too hot.
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Offline mnnate

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Leaf springs from trucks work well to. If you do get it too hot while sharpening hardened steel you will lose the "tempering". You can re-temper the metal by heating it cherry hot and letting it cool in and old bucket of oil. I've heard letting it cool while covered in sand works too. As far as handles car/truck axles are cheap and work well.