I'm going to chime in here... For what it's worth.
I found Little Rivers post fairly accurate. ?It may have been a little a little more to digest than some would like, but he gave good solid info for someone to think about before they choose to breed. ?If nothing else he showed how much info should go into a breeding.
With that said, as many know, I have bred labs for 20 years... I am getting closer by the year to getting out of it. ?The reason being? ?I can no longer produce puppies of quality and thought and get at least a small amount of profit for my work and risk. ?I plain cannot compete with those who choose to indisciminatley breed their dogs and charge $200-400. ?The simple fact remains that you can purchase a 'utility' dog for the same price of 20 years ago. ?Quality dogs back then were in the $500-700 range. ?Now the division between 'quality' and 'utility' is close to $1000. ?I am somewhere in-between which is no-man's land and not a great place to be. ?Simply put, those who put Bingo and Banjo together to get puppies to sell, will make money at $300 a pup X 10... but proper breeding costs much more. ?My vet bills alone on my last 2 litters were pushing $2400 by the time the pups went home. ?Unfortunately both times my females had different complications that were not run of the mill. ?By the time I paid the stud fees, travel, food etc. I really made little if any money. ?I am not complaining, I realize this when I go into each breeding that these factors may come into play and I am solely doing it to produce outstanding progeny, not as a side job... the unfortunate outcome is, I am having a harder time each and every breeding justifying it. ?I am now down to 1 breeding every third year or so... ?maybe less.
It is frustrating to see all the pups that are currently on the market. ?I bet 3 out of 4 litters should never have even been produced. ?I say this as they probably put little effort into the breeding. ?I begrudge no one from breeding their dogs, if they even just put in a minimum of effort into clearing the potential parents genetics and traits including all physical traits and standards. ?I agree the sole reason to breed dogs should be to produce pups of better quality than the the previous generation. ?This simple rule is not always followed, even by the 'pros'!
I am not afraid of others getting into breeding for the reduction in profits from my litters, I am OPPOSED to those breeding their dogs for no other reason than they want to breed their dog. ? Their is nothing sadder than a person who ends up with a pup that goes down from a genetic defect that could have been averted. ?I agree most guarantees are a joke for the simple fact that they are worded such that you must turn in your dog to have it destroyed before you can accept money back or a replacement pup. ?This simply isn't an option for most families. ?My guarantee offers that option (which would probably only be used on a severe defect) or another option, keep your dog as long as you like and when you are ready, you will receive a future pup at your discretion for 50% off. ?I have had to guarantee a few pups over the years and most people used this option. ?Unfortunately, no matter how pure you try to breed your dogs, things will show up. ?I have a female that has thrown 4 litters of pups and as far as I'm aware, 3 litters have no hip or elbow problems, but one litter had a pup that developed a mild case of dysplasia. ?The irony is, it is my vet's dog. ?The sire was a direct import from Scotland and even though he showed clear hips I couldn't trace the rest of the lines back. ?My female had 5 generations of cleared hips and 3+ of cleared eyes and elbows. ?Her sire and grandsire were used for the seeing eye program, she is more sound at 12 1/2, than my male field trial dog who is 10 1/2. ?I breed less and less back to field trial lines as I truly believe a lot of the problems with Labs do sprout from these dogs. ?Plain and simple, it IS about the money! ?Most of the breeders in the field trial game and to an extent hunt test game are in the breeding game for the money! ?There have been many occasions where a well known dog with a disorder has been unscrupulously bred. ?The events which unfold from there are sad. ?Because now 2 generations removed, Mr Smith and Mr Jones are throwing Bingo and Banjo together to 'line breed' their dogs that are out of this great field trial line... the results are not quality dogs going home to new owners. ?The process to come up with the proper breeding takes many months and potentially years, based on heat cycles, availability of studs, getting all your homework done, genetic testing, seasons etc. ?My process for selecting potential parents are in this order, 1)genetically sound, 2) physical attributes incl. proper size,build, looks and most importantly coat. ?Most field trial labs no longer have a proper coat. ?How often did a lab wear a neoprene vest 20 years ago? ?rarely. ?Most no longer have a dual coat which includes the downy hairs under their guard hairs. 3) Ability - this may or may not include titled dogs. ?There are other attributes such as tempermant and tractibility etc, but those dogs have been weeded out from consideration long before I'm narrowing down my search. ?Way too much emphasis is put on titles when producing and selling pups. ?It's an easier task to market the pups with these titles, but people have to understand that all that hot shot breeding will probably not give you the lab of your dreams! ?The flip side is that it is important to have titled dogs in the pedigree so you can show that the pups have been bred down form natural ability. ?It is a fine line and one I struggle with on every breeding. ?People want what labs are/were known for... an intelligent, loyal, CALM working companion. ?
This is getting off track and is becoming more about breeding labs than what the original post was about... but related none the same.
Joe I know little about pointers, but if you need any help or tips about whelping your pups or any non-breed specific questions, I'd be happy to share any knowledge that I have. ?It would be wise to line up a helper for when you are whelping a litter for the 1st time. ?
Back to your original question... Myself? ?I'd wait a couple years if you are only going to breed her once. ?I breed her around 3-4 years of age. ?Let her get some good hunting seasons in before she takes on motherhood. ?Then you have time to get your hips/elbows/eye evaluations done too. ?I also agree with selling pups on a limited registration. ?The pups are still eligible to be registered and can compete in tests etc. ?but their progeny can only be registered upon YOU lifting the 'limited' portion of their registration. ?I will do this upon proof of hips/elbows and eyes being cleared.
Good Luck!
Ken