Recent

Check Out Our Forum Tab!

Click On The "Forum" Tab Under The Logo For More Content!
If you are using your phone, click on the menu, then select forum. Make sure you refresh the page!

The views of the poster, may not be the views of the website of "Minnesota Outdoorsman" therefore we are not liable for what our members post, they are solely responsible for what they post. They agreed to a user agreement when signing up to MNO.

Author Topic: Trailer Conversion Questions  (Read 3050 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Cousin Kyle

  • Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 64
  • Karma: +0/-0
I just picked up a 6 x 8 x 6/1/2ft trailer.  I am going to work on it this winter and next to convert to a mean ice fishing machine.  Heres the problem.  I always use portables and have very little knowledge about how to make the best trailer to fit my needs.

1.  Currently the trailer about 14' inches off the ground with the wheels being under the trailer not on the sides.  I would really like to be able to get a conversion kit to crank down.  Or but a new axle that would allow me to pop the wheels off and jack down.  I am looking for some advice since I am looking to get this trailer on the ice for winter 2008 / 2009 I will spend a few more bucks for the best option. 

2.  Battery powered, Propane, or Generator?  I would be looking for specific products based on your recommendation, a website would be great.  I do already have a Propane Heater to install in the trailer.

I will have more question in regards to accessories but I think this a good start as these will be the first things I complete. 

Thanks for your help, and random advice is appreciated.

Pass the Worms, Pass the Beer

Offline GRIZ

  • Master Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 1793
  • Karma: +0/-0
You will get as many different answers as replies to this one.

For me the easiest and cheapest was to put 2 jacks in the rear and one on the hitch. The wheels just require one pin to pull then tire, spindle and all are off. It does have a couple draw backs but for the most part works fine. All you really need for an axle is a good heavy pipe.

How far would you be going with it? I've made some 4 and 5 hr trips with mine and last yr on the bigger one ended up bringing it to a blacksmith to be welded b4 I could bring it home.
"The two enemies of the people are criminals and government, so let us tie the second down with the chains of the constitution so the second will not become the legalized version of the first."
~Thomas Jefferson

Offline jigglestick

  • Master Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 1704
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Ice house rentals on Lake Winnibigosh
    • www.campjigglestick.com
CK, crank assemblies are fairly simple. if you can cut, weld and grind, you've got it made.
look at a few setups for ideas.
the pin idea works well too, but you have no suspension unless you use removeable torsion setups.

another thing, because of your size, I would suggest using a wall hanging heater.
practice sitting in your house before actually cutting any holes.
you want to be able to fish at least two guys comfortably and occasionaly three.
six holes is very do-able.
abunk or two is also possible. just make it to fold down or up, out of the way.
I can't say enough for windows.
double pane windows are ideal for warmth.
just the idea of having to use a light in the daytime drives me crazy.

use treated wood for the floor and if possible, sandwich a layer of insulation between the plywood on the floor.
Install nice hole covers to trim it out. catch covers are perfect, but if your handy you can make your own from the plywood you cut out for the opening.
one more thing you can do that is very inexpensive and simple is making the tounge to drop down.
all you need to do is look at one of those and you'll have that figured out.

the last thing I will say here is to make sure you put the axel far enough to the rear so you have the proper tounge weight.
generaly about a foot to a foot and a half will do in most applications.
I am talking about marking a point on the house at center. not including the tounge, just the house, and then moving back that foot to foot and a half. that should get you close.
not the pivot point either, I'm talking where the tire sits. the axel or spindle should be back behind center.
hope this helps.
take a kid hunting and fishing!!

THWACK KILLS!!

Offline Randy Kaar

  • Master Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 3112
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Randy aka bh
very good info jigglestick,

randy aka bh
Voted #1 Outdoors Website in MN ( www.mnoutdoorsman.com )!
bonehead149@yahoo.com
bonehead@mnoutdoorsman.com

Offline Cousin Kyle

  • Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 64
  • Karma: +0/-0
Thanks a million Jigglestick.  I may have to pay you for the free consultation. I was over at Gander earlier looking at some of the V-Front versions.  The tongue looks a little complicated, but I will keep breaking it down and see what I can come up with.  I am really interested in a empire side mount ventless, but was hoping to save a few $$$.  I will just keep checking craigslist maybe I can find a good deal this spring.

Pass the Worms, Pass the Beer

Offline Cousin Kyle

  • Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 64
  • Karma: +0/-0
So whats the best store or website to go to for accessories my new trailer?  I need hole covers, rattle reels, bunk(s), or some sort of benches that can be folded open or down into a bed.  I need paneling, cup holders, and wiring,batteries or generator.

So many things I am hoping to look at as many different options as possible.  I am obviously aware of Gander and Cabelas but the markups they charge are absolutely ridiculous online is always cheaper. 

If anyone has any products they want me try please let me know where and how much, also any must haves that you cannot live without.
Pass the Worms, Pass the Beer

Offline jigglestick

  • Master Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 1704
  • Karma: +1/-0
  • Ice house rentals on Lake Winnibigosh
    • www.campjigglestick.com
Kyle, you can do the bunks/benches yourself. a little plywood, some pl200    screws and 2x2's. a couple of hinges and you'll be set.
the hole covers and accessories like you would normaly see  in a fish house can be found at milaca unclaimed freight on hwy 169...in Milaca of course.
I would not be one bit afraid of a ventless wall mount heater. make sure you get one that is thermostaticly controlled.
I can give you a great link to find one. I will pm that to you. don't spread it around. you can order it online and have it to your door in just a couple days.
10,000 btu's should work perfectly for you.
for safety sake, go to wally world and buy a battery operated carbon monoxide detector.
I just bought mine for the rentals.

you can buy your bunk mattresses at milaca too.
I might just have a window connection for you too.

the drop hitch is easy, believe me. I will take pictures for you if you need.
I am going to put one on two more of my houses.
take a kid hunting and fishing!!

THWACK KILLS!!

Offline Cousin Kyle

  • Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 64
  • Karma: +0/-0
Jiggle,

Again, you da the man.  I will do the bunks its good to know that you know a place for the cushions.  No hurry but I would like to see the images of the drop hitch as well as a the crank down.  Anything visual helps me!  Thanks for all your time!  :toast: :party1:
Pass the Worms, Pass the Beer

Offline Merimac

  • Xtreme Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 105
  • Karma: +0/-0
I just gave away some brand new anderson windows.  they would have been perfect.  I will see if I have more.

also check the re-use it center in south minneapolis.

Offline JohnWester

  • Master Outdoorsman
  • Posts: 2294
  • Karma: +9/-8
  • Kabetogama, MN
fishhousesupply has stuff too, super fast delivery.
If a gun kills people then I can blame a pen for my misspells?

IBOT# 286 big_fish_guy