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Author Topic: How To Strikemaster Carb cleaning????  (Read 16024 times)

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Offline high_roller21

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I was tinkering with the ol strikemaster and was wondering how to get at that carb (she has been spitting out oil [amsoil saber 80:1???you tell me] and smoke for a few years now).  Its several years old with the tecumseh engine.  If anyone has any tips or knows of sites with how to pics or videos would be a great help.  I came up with nothing on YouTube or google.  

Thanks in advance

John
« Last Edit: November 11/14/11, 05:39:00 PM by high_roller21 »

Offline lentz

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i belive its right behind the gas tank

Offline high_roller21

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So take off the tank and there it is?  I guess I will start with that.

Thanks
John

Offline The General

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I would run at least a 1/4 tank of gas and Seafoam through it before I did anything else. 
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Offline lentz

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I would run at least a 1/4 tank of gas and Seafoam through it before I did anything else. 


This and on mine I can see part of it if I look under sit I beleave can check tommorow

Offline Go Big Red!

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How'd the cleaning go?

If you still need assistance, let me know.
Take a kid hunting and fishing... It'll be the best thing for generations to come.

Offline high_roller21

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I figured I should do this today so I will let you know how it goes......sure hope I don't break nothing because if it can break, I am the man for the job.

John

Offline high_roller21

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Okay, so I got the gas tank off (to all its quite easy, take the one nut off the top of the tank and then take out the air filter and remove the 2 nuts/bolts next to the choke and bang!....its off).  Now I took off the one side where the "float" or needle is (not to good with carb language,  I am used to seeing a float on bigger carbs).  Now for the other side,  with the black plastic, pictured,  do I want to take this apart?  I know I have taken apart a manual fuel pump apart before on something else and a spring and other stuff went flying and had to end up buying a new one.  I just ordered a new carb kit on eBay (only $8.88) since gas was leaking through the old seals.  Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
John

« Last Edit: December 12/11/11, 09:21:51 AM by high_roller21 »

Offline lentz

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Check your oil to gas ratio mines 50/1 regular oil and 40/1 with strike master that could be your problem

Offline high_roller21

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I am running Amsoil Saber synt  at between 80:1 - 100:1.  If anything it should be running at a higher RPM with wayyyyyyyy less oil and smoke spitting out of the exhaust.  I know the carb has never been givin a overhaul, since I am the original owner  (its the original lazer with the metal handles).  And this lil lady has had it fair share of seafoam run through it.  Its been long over due.....

Thanks
John
« Last Edit: December 12/11/11, 08:18:56 PM by high_roller21 »

Offline high_roller21

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I just had a quick minute to throw the carb back on and the throttle wont shut, it stays open.  Dont know if a spring fell off or something to close the throttle in the carb, but any ideas?  I can take a pic of it later on.

John

Offline Go Big Red!

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I can't see the photos here at work so I'll check at home and get back to you.
Take a kid hunting and fishing... It'll be the best thing for generations to come.

Offline Go Big Red!

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Yes, take apart both sides of the carb but one side at a time.  It should come apart relatively easily except if the gasket holds tight.  If that's the case, gently pry it loose in a couple of spots with a thin, flat blade screwdriver.  Clean with ample amounts of carb cleaner and reassemble.  Be sure to shoot carb cleaner through all the ports, fuel pick-ups, diaphragm, etc. 

The throttle is stuck open because the #1. Throttle shaft is bent or really gummed up (manually move it or clean it thoroughly to check) or #2. You didn't re-install the governor spring or governor linkage correctly.  As you pull the throttle level down, that should cause the spring/linkage to pull open the throttle shaft and plate.

With regards to the oil brand and mix, all 2 cycle carbs need a good cleaning once in awhile regardless if it's an ice auger or chain saw AND regardless of what brand of oil you run through it. 

Glad to see you're addressing any concerns now instead of finding out that you auger won't start out on the ice.  Good luck.
Take a kid hunting and fishing... It'll be the best thing for generations to come.

Offline huntingfisher

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The absolute best is if you can run non-ethanol gas in it.  My local boat repair guy told me that a few years ago.  I've run non-oxygenated gas in lawnmower, boat, weedeater and everything and has been great compared to before.  Also there is a similar product made by mercury that is way better than seafoam.  My buddy is a mechanic and said they changed the formula on seafoam.  A rep came in from jb and showed them that the seafoam now separates from the gas.  Not cool.  So would try to use a different product. 

Offline lentz

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Offline AmsoilGuy

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  • FAW-KINN-AE AMSOIL is good!
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There is another GREAT product by Amsoil called "Quickshot". We have had excellent results using it to get engines running smooth and removing varnish that builds up when the equipment just sits and its without taking apart the carbs. Use in lawn mowers, ice augers and chainsaws or any small engine, 2 cycle or 4 stroke. Its a stabilizer and cleaner all in one. AMSOIL Quickshot SE Fuel Additive has been granted the Best New Powersports Product award for 2011 at the SEMA Show at the Las Vegas Convention Center.
« Last Edit: April 04/21/14, 01:39:54 PM by HD »
Amsoil wholesale ordering information @ http://www.linolakesoil.com