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Author Topic: Screening from the road  (Read 4976 times)

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Offline dakids

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We tried something new this year.  We tilled a strip along the road and planted a couple of 5 gallon buckets full maple seeds(The helicoptor type)

They were free, all I had to do was rake them up.  We tilled some in, broadcasted them on top, and we also dug a 3-4 inch trench and threw them in and covered them up.  The only ones that sprouted were the ones in the trench.  In a couple of years the deer will be safer from the poachers.

The picture doesn't show the trees real good.  They are only a month old.  I will keep updating as they grow.


Anything that is free is worth saving up for.

Offline Big E

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Now this is something I hope you keep us updated on! Cool Idea.
Let the small bucks walk. Don't assume the neighbors will shoot them if you don't. If you shoot him what chance does that buck have to grow......ZERO!

Offline dakids

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There were deer tracks in the tree bed.  It looks like I might need to thin the trees a little bit if the deer don't eat all of them.
Anything that is free is worth saving up for.

Offline LandDr

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Great idea!

Depending on the direction, I would recommend planting a row of shrubs in that strip...lilac, caragana, dogwood, etc....to act as a living snow fence.  Then I would add at least 3 or more strips with conifers...black hills spruce, white spruce, etc....to act at thermal protection.  You would have a really nice barrier and design.

If you are going to just have one row, I would recommend spruce...they keep there needles all year and will provide a better visual barrier and block.  You maple trees will lose their leaves and the wind and snow will blow right thru...as well as everyone will see thru.

Just some things for people to think about.

Land Dr

Offline dakids

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Great idea!

Depending on the direction, I would recommend planting a row of shrubs in that strip...lilac, caragana, dogwood, etc....to act as a living snow fence.  Then I would add at least 3 or more strips with conifers...black hills spruce, white spruce, etc....to act at thermal protection.  You would have a really nice barrier and design.

If you are going to just have one row, I would recommend spruce...they keep there needles all year and will provide a better visual barrier and block.  You maple trees will lose their leaves and the wind and snow will blow right thru...as well as everyone will see thru.

Just some things for people to think about.

Land Dr

We will be killing some strips in the grass and planting Some pines(1000).  We are leaning towards norways.  I really want red pines this year but I was the minority.  Reds will be going in next year.
Anything that is free is worth saving up for.

Offline Fawkinnae

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Great idea!

Depending on the direction, I would recommend planting a row of shrubs in that strip...lilac, caragana, dogwood, etc....to act as a living snow fence.  Then I would add at least 3 or more strips with conifers...black hills spruce, white spruce, etc....to act at thermal protection.  You would have a really nice barrier and design.

If you are going to just have one row, I would recommend spruce...they keep there needles all year and will provide a better visual barrier and block.  You maple trees will lose their leaves and the wind and snow will blow right thru...as well as everyone will see thru.

Just some things for people to think about.

Land Dr

We will be killing some strips in the grass and planting Some pines(1000).  We are leaning towards norways.  I really want red pines this year but I was the minority.  Reds will be going in next year.

What maple did you plant? And I was confused by your comments about red and norway pines. They are the same pine.
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Offline deadeye

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dakids, if you want to get a really fast screen, plant hybred popplar.  They grow like weeds.
***I started out with nothing, and I still have most of it.***

Offline dakids

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Norway Spruce - Picea abies - Northern Minnesota source; Has dark green draping branches; fast growth rate; prefers full to partial sun; does best in moist, well drained soils; often grown for timber, shelter belts, wildlife, and ornamentals. Zone 3-7

Red Pine - Pinus resinosa - Northern Minnesota; Has long soft dark green needles; slow growth rate; needs full sun; prefers deep sandy soil but tolerant of a variety of soils; often grown for timber, shelter belts, ornamentals and Christmas trees. Zone 3-4
Great idea!

What maple did you plant? And I was confused by your comments about red and norway pines. They are the same pine.

Fawfinnae,  I to was confused about red and norway.  We are purchasing the seedling from Itasca greenhouse and that is where I took the above tree info from.

The Maple seeds came from my parents home in the west metro and the seed are the helicopter type.  We refered to them as Soft Maple.  I don't know if they will servive zone 3 in northern minesota.  If they die we loose nothing because the seeds were free.
Anything that is free is worth saving up for.

Offline Fawkinnae

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Got it. I thought you were talking about norway pines.
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Offline dakids

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I've had argumants with my brother until I realized they were2 differant trees.
Anything that is free is worth saving up for.

Offline LandDr

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Something REALLY important to think about with "pine" versus "spruce"...pine trees will eventually lose their bottom branches which will leave the bottom wide open for wind, snow and visability.  Spruce on the other hand keep their bottom branches their entire lives for better blocks.

I sometimes will use pine in big block plantings...but otherwise it is always spruce.  I pretty much stick with the Black Hills Spruce and White Spruce.

Hybrid Poplar or any other cottonwood or pople tree...they do grow fast...like weeds...but they CAN be weeds.  They can spread their seed all over the place and then you have little nasty trees growing in areas you didn't want trees.  They will drop branches everywhere too which can make a real mess and a lot of work cleaning them up...and short lived which may result in major cleanup.  Also, they have no bottom branches either so they are not good blocks.  They also provide perches for avian predators such as hawks and owls. 

Land Dr

Offline Fawkinnae

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Something REALLY important to think about with "pine" versus "spruce"...pine trees will eventually lose their bottom branches which will leave the bottom wide open for wind, snow and visability.  Spruce on the other hand keep their bottom branches their entire lives for better blocks.

I sometimes will use pine in big block plantings...but otherwise it is always spruce.  I pretty much stick with the Black Hills Spruce and White Spruce.

Hybrid Poplar or any other cottonwood or pople tree...they do grow fast...like weeds...but they CAN be weeds.  They can spread their seed all over the place and then you have little nasty trees growing in areas you didn't want trees.  They will drop branches everywhere too which can make a real mess and a lot of work cleaning them up...and short lived which may result in major cleanup.  Also, they have no bottom branches either so they are not good blocks.  They also provide perches for avian predators such as hawks and owls. 

Land Dr

I have to second what Kyle said. Stick with natives and avoid the exotics. They look out of place because they are. Native quaking aspens can grow 6' per year and don't forget the bigtooth aspens.
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Offline dakids

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The weeds are starting to take over.  I might let them go a little while longer.  They are giving them a little bit of cover from the deer.  I will spray between the rows of trees with gly. in a month.
Anything that is free is worth saving up for.