Food Plot Q and A - Mike from Melrose, MN

[Mayfly]

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This weeks questions comes from mike from Melrose, MN:

I have a hard time knowing which planter plates to use. I have a olser 2 row j.d 269 planter. Tell me if there is a place to look -not on the bag -most don't give you a chart.


Answer:

You can buy different plates to go inside the hoppers in the bottom. They do 2 things, space your seed and then drop them down the shute to the soil as it turns. There are different plates for sweet corn, field corn and beans. Obviously, you can move the heads in and out (slide them from side to side) to change your row widths. So, basically you have to "fit" the seed, by holding the plate in your hand, and placing a seed in the slot. If it does not fit in the slot, it won't drop down the shute. Like sweet corn is flat, and can use a thinner slot plate, field corn is more rounder and needs a bigger slotted plate.


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Hunterdown - One of the staff members here at MNO has some experience with this and answered this question. If anyone else out there has any input please post here so we can get Mike on track! Hope this helps Mike and if you have more questions please use the form of feel free to register and post here.

Thanks! 

[HD]

I should add this....

Some seeds vary from different suppliers, so, your best bet for older planters is to take a sample of seed with you to a used implement dealer. They have a wide variety of plates to choose from for different sized seed. This way, you won't have to purchase a bunch of plates you may not use. Plates are relitively inexpensive, but why spend the money if you don't have to. Some of the plates are interchangeable from different companys that manufactured planters. If you have one, bring it along with you for comparison.

[LandDr]

I would agree with those responses.  I just ask for a certain size seed each year when I place my inventory order...for example with corn I always order "small rounds".  Then it fits my equipment every time as well as "small rounds" are better for my customers that may want to broadcast their seed or even run it thru a grain drill (close every two holes to make a row corn planter out of the drill).

You definately do not want to "crack" the seed.  If your plate is just a little small, or even a little too big where it allows a seed and "a half" in the slot, then you will crack some seed which will then not grow.

I seen there were a bunch of plates on Ebay as well...but your local implement shop is a great start.

Land Dr

[Dotch]

I agree with what's been said, er, written, and to add to it, in this area anyway if you're dealing with a seed dealer who has been in the business for many years, odds are they will still have a large supply of plates somewhere in their warehouse. The dealer who owns the building we operate out of usually gets one or two requests per year for plates and he has a pile of them. Most have John Deere and IH plates. The plates for the 2 companies planters are not interchangeable. Deere designed plates are more of raised ring type plate and the IH plates are more of a complete plate in appearance, roughly an inch hole in the center and are flat. Usually the dealer will let you use the plates as long as you bring them back and some may not care if you bring them back because they aren't in demand.

Many food plot planters in this area want to purchase partial bags that've been returned to the dealer or leftover test plot seed which is fine because it's usually cheap or free. It's better from the dealer's standpoint sometimes to give dabs away than having it lay around over winter and taking up space. The problem with that is you have to take the seed size you get. As a veteran of test plot planting, the seed size can be extremely variable between hybrids and sources. Winter production seed from South America has a tendency to be on the large side while the domestically produced stuff can be anything and everything. Just a little advice, if you get a freebie from the dealer, treat them the way you would like to be treated. They're not running a charity. Sometimes a case or bottle of his favorite or a gift certificate suddenly makes you a priority customer come next season.  

[dakids]

I have read and been told that we should spray and kill a couple of weeks before planting.  I have also read to not spray, just to till under the weeds.  My ? is what are the pros and cons of each?

[Big E]

I have read and been told that we should spray and kill a couple of weeks before planting.  I have also read to not spray, just to till under the weeds.  My ? is what are the pros and cons of each?

Not saying this is what you should do or anything like that. There's people on this site that know a lot more about it than I do but here is what works for me and the reasons I do it.
 I spray in the spring when the weeds get about 8" tall but no taller. I then wait a few weeks to let the warmer season weeds to come up and I spray again killing them and anything I missed. Sometimes I will repeat this process 3 times if I feel it needs it. I then plant the same day as I spray it for the last time. I DO NOT drag or disk after spraying. That only disturbs the seed bed and uncovers more weeds and all the time and money was a waste. I broadcast right onto the soil which my germination rate is a little lower but not having weeds means more to me.
 If I do disk or drag I wait until it greens up and do the process I just talked about. Unless I'm planting RR corn or beans then I plant right away. After you disturb the soil new growth will come up, might not be thick but it will come up.

[HUNTER2]

If I have a lot of weeds I try and spray with a good dose of Round up mixed with Curtail. Then I will till the ground and wait about 3 weeks and till again and plant the same day and drag it and then try and pack it. You will still get weeds, but it helps. Those weed seeds will lay dorment for years tell you disturb them. The only way too keep them out is the round up ready crops.