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2016 Rut Predictions for Every Theory



The RUT - a unanimous term that sparks excitement, anxiety, and giddiness amongst the deer hunting community.  It's the equivalent of Christmas, the 4th of July, and Thanksgiving all rolled into an unbelievable 3-week period during the fall.  Quite plainly, as hunters, it's what we live for.

Hunting magazines dedicate entire issues to it, the Outdoor Channel runs nonstop footage of it, and social media is swarmed with it. THE RUT is a deer hunter's cocaine, when we're not hunting it, we're consuming it, discussing it, daydreaming of it, and waiting for it.  It's the time when we feel good about every hunt and every hour we are on stand.

Without further ado, here are the 2016 Rut Predictions for Every Theory!

Whitetail Deer fighting

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How to Tune Your Hunting Broadheads in 30 Minutes or Less

Three simple steps to ensure your hunting arrows fly true
Article by Tony Hansen
 
vane broadhead
Photo by Tony Hansen
Eyeball your hunting shafts to check for proper vane-to-broadhead alignment.

Shooting your broadheads prior to the start of bow season is a required task no matter how well you are grouping practice points. Things—sometimes strange things—happen to arrow flight when you swap from aerodynamic field tips to broadheads. And, yes, that applies to both fixed blades and mechanicals.

Follow these quick and simple steps and you'll have your broadheads flying where you want them to with minimal fuss in about 30 minutes or less.

1. Lose the Wobble

The majority of broadhead flight issues have nothing at all to do with your bow. But to find its root cause, you've first got to test for wobble. Put a broadhead on a hunting shaft and spin the arrow with the tip of the head against a hard surface. If it does not spin true, fix it.

Wobble is triggered by a lack of balance. There are four main culprits: a bent broadhead, a bent arrow insert, an insert that's not square to the arrow, or some sort of weight issue with the arrow shaft.

To correct a wobble, begin with the insert.

First, make sure the cut end of the arrow is square. You can use sandpaper to correct an uneven cut or, better yet, a G5 Arrow Squaring Device. When you're confident the arrow is square, replace the insert and spin it again.

If the wobble remains, try screwing on a different broadhead. If the wobble is gone, you've got a bad head. However, if it remains, inspect the arrow for anything unusual on the shaft surface. On several occasions I've cured wobbling by finding and removing a piece of excess insert adhesive or fletching glue on the arrow shaft.

2. Get It In Line 

For the best arrow flight, align the blades of a fixed-blade head with the fletching of the arrow. Obviously, this is done more easily when using a three-blade head. When using a four-blade model, index the blades so that a vane is aligned between each blade.

If you can't make the blades line up when the broadhead is screwed tight, either heat up the insert adhesive and twist the insert slightly until the blades align, or (my preferred method) install a small rubber O-ring between the insert and the broadhead. The O-ring allows you to tighten the head down while leaving enough play for fine-tuning blade alignment.

3. Punch Some Paper

Paper-tuning sounds much more complex than it is. Here's how to do it:

Cut a hole in the center of a cardboard box and duct-tape a sheet of paper over the hole. From 4 to 6 feet, shoot an arrow through the paper and study the shape of the tear.

What you're looking for is the classic bullet-hole tear. You should see a tear outline of the center point of your broadhead and each arrow fletch. The tears should be uniform in length, with nothing high, low, left, or right.

If you have a directional tear (meaning the tear is longer in one direction), you'll need to tune it out. Again, this isn't difficult so long as the issue isn't too severe.

You want to "chase" the tear with your rest or nocking point. If the tear is to the left, move your rest to the left. If it's right, move your rest right.

If the tear is high, move your rest up or the nocking point down. If the tear is low, move your rest down or the nock point up.

Moving the rest is preferable when possible since adjusting nocking points can be tricky. Start by making very minor adjustments. Reshoot and read the tear, and continue making corrections as needed.

Eyeball your hunting shafts to check for proper vane-to-broadhead alignment.  

 

Hunting Early Season Whitetails: A Week-By-Week Plan

Article by Tony Hansen
 

The rut.

Just writing the words produces a shudder of gleeful anticipation. The plan is simple: If it's daylight, go hunting. There can be no more elaborate plan because the rut generally follows no script. It's exciting.

The early season (in Michigan, our season opens on October 1) requires a bit more forethought and might even provide a better opportunity for killing a giant, thanks to pattern-based strategies. But there are choices to be made, and a plan to be laid.

WEEK 1: Ease In—Or Not

If your scouting efforts have revealed a shooter on a solid pattern in daylight and the weather conditions are right, it's time to take advantage of the situation. Just understand this: As soon as you start to apply pressure, deer will begin to react. If, however, you're capturing only nocturnal movement or haven't pinned down a pattern, your best bet is to ease into things.

Observation stands situated in areas of high visibility can be dynamite, particularly if you know there will be moderate to heavy hunting pressure on neighboring land. You aren't sitting this stand to kill a buck—you're sitting it to gather the information needed to kill one in the coming days.

The opening week of the season requires a delicate balance of aggression and passivity. Hunt hard, but hunt smart.

early season whitetails acorns
Photo by Tony Hansen
Early-season whitetails will seek out the best available food sources and fresh acorns are at the top of the list.

WEEK 2: Apply What 
You've Learned

During the first week of the season, I'm highly reluctant to hunt mornings. The evening sits are simply too good, and I don't want to do anything to disrupt that bed-to-feed pattern.

By the second week, however, I've learned more about the current patterns of the local deer population and, living in an oak-rich region, I know the acorn "bite" will be on. Morning sits can be productive at this time. Regardless of the food situation where you're hunting, you've had a week to decipher what the deer (and your trail cameras) are telling you. Take advantage of it now, because things will soon change and all of that information will be irrelevant.

WEEK 3: Get Tight

The third week of the season is usually when social media posts start featuring the words "October lull" on a daily basis.

Personally, I don't buy into the notion of a lull. I simply think this mid-October period is a time of serious transition and reaction. Food sources are changing rapidly, and cover preferences are changing too. And, of course, hunting pressure has ramped up and is causing plenty of change as a result.

Now is when I'll switch from hunting food sources to hunting areas of transitional cover tighter to bedding areas and security zones. This is also a week when I'll let key areas rest.

I'm a firm believer that old bucks that are heavily hunted will relocate to areas of less pressure at some point in October. If they can live there unmolested until around the end of the third week of October, those deer are reluctant to leave with the rut drawing near. They're there to stay for the rut, and that means you've got them right where you want them.

Hunting on top of a food source can still work, but your odds of encountering a mature buck in daylight are greatly reduced now and, of most consequence, the odds of your hunting those deer without their knowing it are slim. Scrapes are starting to pop up now, as well as defined rub lines. That's a key bit of information.

Research has proven that mature buck activity increases steadily throughout the month of October as the rut draws near. The difference now is that most activity will occur after dark and most daylight activity will be in areas where bucks feel secure. Hunting staging areas near bedding cover can be productive—particularly in traditional scraping areas or along a well-defined rub line.

WEEK 4: Put It All Together

If you haven't tagged out by now, don't despair. The best week of the month is upon us. The strict bed-to-feed pattern is still in play, but not in the same way as before. This week is when you can put everything together. By now you should know what food source is the current hotspot. You'll have encountered active scrape areas. You'll have figured out where the big boys have relocated in response to hunting pressure. It's time to get serious.

Morning sits are productive so long as you carefully plan your entrance. Get there early and stay a bit later in the morning when possible. For afternoon sits, hunt those staging areas near prime food sources and near the bedding cover you suspect the big bucks are using.

Trail cameras placed over active scrapes should reveal just about every buck in the neighborhood now. Use that information to your advantage. The pre-rut period is really ramping up, and you're looking at the ideal window of opportunity: Deer are still on a pattern more or less, and peak breeding is still a few days off. The early season is winding down. If you've made a plan and stuck to it, it was one of the best you've ever had.

 

Here are five new deer stands you don't want to miss for opening day.

New deer stands are always catching my eye. Here are my top five picks for the 2016 season. Enjoy!

1. The Vine Ladder Stand by Summit

The Vine Ladder Stand is one of the coolest climbing stands that I know. It completely blends right into the surroundings by incorporating a patent-pending ladder section with a curved design.

It is available in single and double hunter configurations and is fully equipped with a harness system, built in footrest, armrests, and a padded shooting rail. The stand retails for $299.99. Click here to visit Summit's website in order to view more of the specs on their Vine Ladder Stand.

2. Explorer HD by Summit

Like most bowhunters I know, I like the idea of having a portable stand that I can use to thoroughly explore the deer woods I have available. The Explored HD is an awesome new stand that comes open faced or closed faced depending on your preferences.

This stand retails at $329.99. Click here to visit Summit's website in order to view more of the specs on this awesome stand.

3. Wide Flip-Top Climber "Combo" by Lone Wolf

Lone Wolf
Lone Wolf

The folks at Lone Wolf took the time to combine a few different product ideas in order to bring you this fantastic climber. It improves comfort and safety while maximizing the functionality and overall ease-of-use.

All you climbing freaks out there will love to get you hands on this thing. The stand retails at $479.99. Click here to visit Lone Wolf's website in order to view the full list of specs.

4. 17′ DETECTIVE SLS by HAWK

new deer stands
Photo by: HAWK

The new Detective Series is designed to allow hunters access to an affordable platform that doesn't come with the typical problems experience by other ladder stands on the market. The Patent-Pending SLS, Stacking Ladder System, is a very wide-stance base witch creates a rock-solid platform.

The stand is portable and extremely affordable. Retail on this bad boy is only $109.99. Click here to visit HAWK's website in order to view the full list of specs.

5. Alpha Tech F1 by Lone Wolf

Lone Wolf
Lone Wolf

These new deer stands hang out right where comfort and affordability meet. The extra roomy 30″ x 19-1/2″ aluminum platform feels great under you feet while the thick contoured foam seat pad cups your rear like your sitting on throne built for a king.

Overall this stand weighs in just under 14 pounds and has a weight limit of 300 pounds! This stand retails at $209.99. Click here to visit Lone Wolf's website in order to view the full list of specs.

 

Cruisin' for a bruin

Forget bait. For pursuing black bears, nothing beats the excitement of spot-and-stalk hunting



By Nick Trehearne

As I came over the knoll and saw the black, furry back of a trophy bruin feeding 50 yards away, the adrenalin set in. With the bear completely unaware of my presence, there was no point in standing up and taking a long shot—I had more than enough time left in the day to see where it was heading and wait for a better opportunity.

I patiently held my ground, watching the bear's every move, and sure enough, it decided to leave the grassy clearing and head toward the timber. Oh, did I mention I happened to be right between the bear and the patch of brush he was heading towards? Hastily, I clipped the arrow release onto my D-loop, as I knew the bear was coming quickly and it would only be a matter of seconds before he was on my lap.

While making his way in my direction, the big boar made good use of the last few yards by eating the fresh spring grass, which, thankfully, gave me time to draw back my bow undetected. Time seemed to stand still as he closed about half the distance. I anchored the pin on his vitals, slowly squeezed the trigger and watched as my bright white fletches disappeared into the black fur.

After a quick follow-up shot, I had a Pope and Young class bruin on the ground and a notched tag for my second spring spot-and-stalk black bear. When sharing a photo of the animal with my hunting buddies across North America, the first question that always came up was, "Were you hunting over bait?" I wasn't, of course, but I have no problem with using bait—I've taken many bears that way in the past. But for me, spot-and-stalk adds an extra level of excitement to bear hunting. Here's what you need to know to get in on the action, too.


Timing:

If you're willing to do all the work of running baits or pay to go on an outfitted hunt, you'll likely have better odds of shooting a spring bear. That's because you'll be hunting bears that think with just one thing after coming out of hibernation—their stomachs. But spot-and-stalk hunting can also take advantage of that weakness. Over the years, I've managed to locate several areas that are the first to green up in the spring, and ultimately serve in the same manner as bait sites by luring in hungry bruins.

Indeed, timing is the biggest factor when planning a spot-and-stalk bear hunt. Along with finding the first areas to green up after the snow melts, you can also spot big bruins cruising the countryside looking for a sow in heat once the spring rut kicks in.

As for fall, time your hunt for when the berries are in their prime, especially in the West. While glassing mountain hillsides, it's not uncommon to spot several bears in a single day, feasting on this essential part of their fall diet.

Whether you're heading out in the spring or fall, keep in mind that the timing will be slightly different from area to area. So, if you're not hunting with an outfitter who already knows which dates are ideal, do some research on your own—pick up the phone or jump on the Internet and reach out to those in the know. Online hunting forums, conservation officers and even the local hunting store are good bets for gathering intel. It will be well worth the extra effort.


Locating:

Once you've determined the best time to head afield in a particular area, the next step is to actually locate the bears, and that means putting some kilometres on your boots. Sure, quickly coming across a bear during this process can be a bonus and a quick way to end your hunt, but if you're not seeing bears, on the other hand, don't assume you're in a poor location.

I harvested my first Boone and Crockett bear by simply hiking until I found enough sign of a mature animal—tracks, scat and hair—that I knew it would be worth my effort to not give up on the area. Sure enough, I eventually spotted the bear breaking out of the timber, and was I able to sneak in 100 yards closer for a quick rifle kill.

Pinpointing an area with concentred sign is definitely key to a successful spot-and-stalk bear hunt, whether it's in the spring or fall. Black bears have relatively small stomachs, requiring them to eat continuously throughout the day. If they find a good food source, they'll usually return to the same area several times throughout the day—and leave behind plenty of sign.

On the flipside, if you come across an area that has just one good set of tracks passing through it (above), don't spend too much time looking. The tracks were likely left behind by a bear on the move, not a return resident feeder. 

Judging:

Field judging bears is the same whether you're hunting over bait or spotting and stalking, right? Wrong. When you're hunting with bait from a stand, there are typically certain points of reference that can help you determine the size of the bear. You can compare the bear to the bait barrel, for example, or judge its height based on whether it's tall enough to reach the beaver carcass dangling by a rope overhead.

When you're spot-and-stalk hunting on the ground with no predetermined reference points, however, bears can be quite difficult to judge. That said, there are several telltale signs of a big bear that can't be missed. When I'm field judging, for example, I try to focus purely on the head.

In particular, the number one thing I look for is a crease in the bear's forehead, caused by the muscle on the skull building up over the years. If the crease runs from the eyes back to between the ears, I know I'm looking at a trophy animal. To date, this method has never led me astray.

It's not enough to rely on just one physical feature, though, so I also look at the bear's ears. If it's a truly big bruin, the ears should appear small, protruding from the side of the head, rather than on top.

Stalking:

So, you've finally spotted a trophy animal—now what? Do you quickly sneak up and shoot it? This might work once in a while, but it's far better to first take a few precautions to ensure you successfully harvest the bear.

Unlike deer, the bear's weakness is its eyesight. This allows you to get away with small amounts of movement, but precisely because of the poor eyesight, it seems the bear's other senses are heightened—if your quarry smells or hears you, there's a good chance you're going home empty-handed. (This doesn't seem to be the case when hunting over bait, however. Just about every time I've had a bear come in, it looked at me and smelled my scent, but didn't flee. Some even tried to climb up the tree to check me out, up close and personal.)

As with spotting and stalking any game animal, playing the wind and staying downwind is therefore essential. As for striving to remain silent, wool socks can be your best friend when closing the final distance, especially while bowhunting in tight quarters. Simply lose your boots and throw on the socks at the start of the stalk, and you'll immensely reduce the sound of your footsteps. Another good option is a pair of sound-dampening Sneek-EZ boot covers.

Moving only when the bear is occupied is also integral to a successful spot-and-stalk hunt. Whether the bruin is feeding, distracted by something or walking in any direction other than toward you, that's the time for you to move in. And as soon as the bear stops, you must stop, too.

If you're planning to head out for black bears this spring or fall, and you've always hunted over bait, consider getting on the ground and harvesting a bruin at eye level instead. Not only will you get more exercise if you spot-and-stalk your quarry, if you're like me, you'll also enjoy a much more rewarding—and intimate—hunt.

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