Wood forearm repair - DONE!!!!!!!

[Go Big Red!]

A friend of mine is needing a repair done on his father's (He has since past a few years ago) Remington 1100 12G wood forearm.  

Any suggestions?  Adhesives that can be used?  

(I am going to fix it as a way to say thanks for allowing me to duck hunt with him @ the same spot his dad introduced him to duck hunting when he was 6.)

[Bobby Bass]

Pictures? cracked? missing?

[HD]

Yep, we could use some pics..........

I fixed one of my 1100's with some regular wood glue, and fiberglassed the inside like they are originaly....sanded er down and re-stained it...then polly.

I guess we need to know how bad it is....Mine was cracked right in half. It was that way when I got it.


Hunter

[beeker]

theres a hundred ways to fix it.. (well maybe more like 10). is he planning to still use it or just hang it on the wall like a tribute? post some pics...

[Go Big Red!]

He's going to continue to use it after it is fixed.  I will get pics this weekend for all to see.  The Cracks are running with the wood grain and parallel with the barrel.  Nothing has been broken off yet, but I think it should be an easy fix.  Pictures on Monday.

[Randy Kaar]

Some gorilla brand glue and clamp till dry should hold up.

randy

[beeker]

from the sounds of it.. I would use standard wood glue because it will have some flexibility.. your standard clamps will be a pain to use as the wood is rounded and could be easily crushed with a clamp not to mention the dents it could leave. take your glue and a china brush and push the glue into the cracks with the brush. then have an old t-shirt cut into strips.. tie the tshirt around the forearm to work as your clamp. you should be able to get it tight enough. 

[GRAMPS]

Go to the Hobby Shop and get some of the epoxy they use for models this can be worked into the crack.  Fill the insice fo the forearm with something to hold it's shape, a piece of styrafoam rounded out to fit works quite well and use rubber bands to hold it in place.  Be sure to clean out all of the oil residue in the crack with naptha or Gun Scrubber before you try to glue it. 
Good Luck

[Go Big Red!]

Here are the photos of the cracked forearm.  My apologizes for taking so long to get them posted.










Let me know what you think to repair and any words of advice as to not cause any further damage.

[HD]

Holly  batman.....

I think I would use gramps sugjestion.....clean the cracks real good with some kind of degreaser. Get some epoxy to fill the cracks, sand it down, restain, then polly. Or, buy new...

If the forearm is that bad, what kinda condition is the stock?

[Go Big Red!]

The stock is in great condition considering it shows wear marks.

[beeker]

that's in bad shape.. can you find a replacement one out there somewhere? and just swap it out? I know it has sentimental value.. but the gun is still the gun his dad owned. save the old one for when it's time to hang it on the wall and for using it toss on the replacement.

[Go Big Red!]

   I'm sure I could find a replacement forearm, but I know he is planning on passing it down to his son so the likelihood of it hanging on the wall won't happen anytime soon.

[Go Big Red!]

Anyone have an idea of how to remove the stock without damage?  I want to strip both parts down and refinish them after I fix the forearm that is in shambles.

[GRAMPS]

Does the stock have a recoil pad or hard plastic butplate?  Remove the butplate or recoil pad
and look down inside, there will be a bolt head or slotted head down inside.  Use a long screwdriver or socket to remove and the stock will come right off.
Hope this helps.  If you have any other questions send me a PM with your phone number and I can call you tomorrow evening.

Gramps

[Go Big Red!]

Does the stock have a recoil pad or hard plastic butplate?  Remove the butplate or recoil pad
and look down inside, there will be a bolt head or slotted head down inside.  Use a long screwdriver or socket to remove and the stock will come right off.
Hope this helps.  If you have any other questions send me a PM with your phone number and I can call you tomorrow evening.

Gramps

It's got a recoil pad yet I don't see how to take it off.  Do you think it's one where the imbed the screws into the rubber and you have to fish for them?

[beeker]

if you do go fishing.. oil up your screw driver first.. then you will minimize any damage to the rubber.. or vaseline works good too.

[GRAMPS]

There are two holes in the recoil pad that are hard to find.  Put some liuid dish soap on a philips screwdriver and gently push the screwdriver around on the pad until you find the spots where the holes are  They should be about one inch from the top and bottom of the pad.  Use a good screwdriver or you could strip out the screw heads.  Hope this helps.

[Go Big Red!]

Finally got around to stripping the gun down and I have the butt pad removed. I could use a big blade screwdriver to remove the nut but I have found a tool called a "Stock Bolt Wrench".  How tight is this nut on?  I have not yet tried to pull it off.



Does anyone have this that I could rent?  Or do most go with the screwdriver?

Thanks.

[GRAMPS]

Take your socket wrench with a long extension and the right socket (you will have to figure out what size) then clamp the receiver in a padded vice and the nut or bolt should come off without to much hard work.

Gramps

[Go Big Red!]

Gramps-

So that nut spins right off?  Just making sure it doesn't have tension built up behind it and it comes flying out nor anything else behind it. 

And when I put it back on, how much do I tighten it?  I don't want to mess up the action recoil inertia.

Thanks for all your insight.

[GRAMPS]

It's a Remington (gas operated) There is no spring under the nut.  When you put it back on just
tighten it up so that it is snug as you are working with a wood stock and it can shrink and swell
with changes in humidity.

Gramps

[dew2]

   I've done a number of these and through trial and error,I found the best long term solution is to break the cracks all the way through.In your case 2 cracks will make 3 seperate pieces,The forearm,and two pieces,clean the old exposed cracks,but dont remove outter wood so there wont be a noticable crack,The new wood doesnt need cleaning,Dry fit them to make sure the repair is up to quality.use a dowel as a barrel,put wax paper on the glued area,Gorilla glue works great! before it I used a carpenters exterior glue (titebondIII).Use tiedown straps and crank em down tight! then use small wedges between the tiedown and the wood to close any gaps.

[Go Big Red!]

It's a Remington (gas operated) There is no spring under the nut.  When you put it back on just
tighten it up so that it is snug as you are working with a wood stock and it can shrink and swell
with changes in humidity.

Gramps

Got it.  Thanks again.

[Go Big Red!]

It is finally done and here is the end result.  

After gluing the cracks and sanding away the glue remnants, I was able to strip off all of the old sealer and then sanded out the old stain and some dents and dings.  No wood filler was used and I never touched the checkering besides scraping off the old sealer with a razor blade.  New "English Chestnut" stain and 5 coats of exterior grade polyurethane.  I hope he likes it....

[FireRanger]

Great Job Red!!! I'm sure Finpower will be very, very happy. This is a very nice thing you have done for a great friend. Kudos to you and your handy work! Maybe he'll knock it around this weekend.

[thunderpout]

Yep... very good job there Red!   Now when one of us snaps ours over our knee on the sporting clays course we know where its going!   (It wont be me though, I never lose it out on the range... )

[Randy Kaar]

Nice work there Big Red.

randy